What
used to be passed over as a nondescript port city is now one of Europe’s most
sought-after weekend destinations: last year, Gothenburg’s visitor numbers
topped four million for the first time. As a result, Sweden’s second-largest
city is enjoying a much-needed revival: industrial buildings are being turned
into cool hangouts, rundown areas are starting to thrive and the city has made
it to number 12 on Forbes’ list of innovative world cities (although still behind Stockholm and Malmö). Think “Berlin
cool” but with the friendliness of a small town with pretty cobbled streets.
Jump on a bike or tram to explore boroughs, including hip Linnéstaden, bohemian
Majorna and former red-light district Rosenlund (it’s Gothenburg’s take on New
York’s Meatpacking District – only here it is known as the fish-packing
district, thanks to its fish market). And, given the city’s coastal position
and beautiful archipelago, spring and early summer are perfect times to visit.
What to do
Modern art
Besides the more central art venues, such as the Hasselblad Centre, Röhsska textile museum and Gothenburg Museum of Art, it is well worth visiting Röda Sten. What was once an old boilerhouse is now an exhibition hall showing a wide selection of contemporary artists, as well as a cafe and club. The graffiti-covered building is right by the water, with excellent views of Gothenburg’s most famous harbour landmarks: Älvsborg bridge and Eriksberg dock.
• Adult 40kr (about £30), free for under-26s, Röda Sten 1, rodasten.com
Besides the more central art venues, such as the Hasselblad Centre, Röhsska textile museum and Gothenburg Museum of Art, it is well worth visiting Röda Sten. What was once an old boilerhouse is now an exhibition hall showing a wide selection of contemporary artists, as well as a cafe and club. The graffiti-covered building is right by the water, with excellent views of Gothenburg’s most famous harbour landmarks: Älvsborg bridge and Eriksberg dock.
• Adult 40kr (about £30), free for under-26s, Röda Sten 1, rodasten.com
Island hopping
The archipelago, much of which is car-free, is just a short boat
ride from the mainland. Catch the ferry at Saltholmen (take the number 11 tram
from central Gothenburg). Make your first stop Styrsö island, only 20 minutes
from town, and its lovely cafe Öberska (oberska.se). Try its delicious homemade
delights, such as the prinsesstårta (princess cake), carrot cake or
raspberry pie. Öberska also makes delicious lemonade that is best enjoyed in
the herb garden. Close to Styrsö is Brännö island, where the restaurant Brännö Värdshus (brannovardshus.se), serves incredible seafood
year-round.
• For ferry timetables and ticket information, see styrsobolaget.se
• For ferry timetables and ticket information, see styrsobolaget.se
Botanical garden
A beautiful place to visit in the spring and early summer is the Botaniska Trädgården (in Änggården, close to the Slottsskogen park). It is among Europe’s larger botanical parks (430 acres), boasting 16,000 plant species. The rhododendron valley is spectacular and is in full bloom until early June. Other attractions include a Japanese glade and a rock garden with waterfall.
• Voluntary admission price £1.50, Carl Slottsbergs gata 22a, gotbot.se
A beautiful place to visit in the spring and early summer is the Botaniska Trädgården (in Änggården, close to the Slottsskogen park). It is among Europe’s larger botanical parks (430 acres), boasting 16,000 plant species. The rhododendron valley is spectacular and is in full bloom until early June. Other attractions include a Japanese glade and a rock garden with waterfall.
• Voluntary admission price £1.50, Carl Slottsbergs gata 22a, gotbot.se
Water tours
A great way to enjoy Gothenburg is from the water – the city’s
moat and canals date from 1600 and the harbour is the longest in Sweden. You
can join a guidedkayak tour and paddle past striking sights such as the opera
house and the 83-metre
tall Lipstick building (Lilla Bommen). If you prefer not to propel yourself,
book on to a Paddan boat sightseeing tour. This way you will experience the
waterways from up close. Make sure to mind your head under the low bridges
though!
• Paddan tour £13, family ticket £33, board at Kungportsplatsen, Stromma.se. City kayak tour, £39 for a two-hour guided tour, from Point 65 Kayak Centre, Lilla Bommens torg 2, Point65.se
• Paddan tour £13, family ticket £33, board at Kungportsplatsen, Stromma.se. City kayak tour, £39 for a two-hour guided tour, from Point 65 Kayak Centre, Lilla Bommens torg 2, Point65.se
Water lily pond, Renström park
This is just behind the Gothenburg Museum of Art on Götaplatsen square. It’s a secret hideaway right in the city centre and has inspired countless authors and musicians. The green surroundings and white lilies lend it a fairytale vibe.
This is just behind the Gothenburg Museum of Art on Götaplatsen square. It’s a secret hideaway right in the city centre and has inspired countless authors and musicians. The green surroundings and white lilies lend it a fairytale vibe.
Way Out West festival
In August, go to the Way Out West music festival in Slottsskogen park. This year’s line-up includes Patti Smith, Beck, Belle & Sebastian and Ellie Goulding.
• August 13-15, wayoutwest.se, festival pass about £150
In August, go to the Way Out West music festival in Slottsskogen park. This year’s line-up includes Patti Smith, Beck, Belle & Sebastian and Ellie Goulding.
• August 13-15, wayoutwest.se, festival pass about £150
Where to
eat
Auktionsverket
The area around Tredje Långgatan has been buzzing for a long time. What was once part of Gothenburg’s hard-working harbour area is now filled with trendy restaurants, bars and cafes. The latest addition is Auktionsverket, an old auction house converted into several restaurants, a wine bar, cafe, bakery and gallery. Highlights include works by local artists covering the walls inside the Italian bistro Taverna Averna, the margaritas at Tacos & Tequila, and the barbecued pork buns and Sichuan fresh noodles at Made in China. For lighter snacks, a Vietnamese food truck is parked in the courtyard.
• Meals from £6, Tredjelånggatan 7-11, tredjelanggatan.se
The area around Tredje Långgatan has been buzzing for a long time. What was once part of Gothenburg’s hard-working harbour area is now filled with trendy restaurants, bars and cafes. The latest addition is Auktionsverket, an old auction house converted into several restaurants, a wine bar, cafe, bakery and gallery. Highlights include works by local artists covering the walls inside the Italian bistro Taverna Averna, the margaritas at Tacos & Tequila, and the barbecued pork buns and Sichuan fresh noodles at Made in China. For lighter snacks, a Vietnamese food truck is parked in the courtyard.
• Meals from £6, Tredjelånggatan 7-11, tredjelanggatan.se
Boulebar
Combine brunch with boules (the French ball game that’s popular here) in the park-like interior of one of the city’s recent additions, Boulebar. Mediterranean plants and “outdoor” seating give the illusion of a town square, the typical setting for the game. If you prefer to play in the real outdoors, visit Levantine Bar Boule Café (levantine.se) in Vasaparken in the Vasatan district.
• £20 Boulebar entry includes a 90-minute game and a buffet brunch, Rosenlundsgatan 8, boulebar.se/rosenlund
Combine brunch with boules (the French ball game that’s popular here) in the park-like interior of one of the city’s recent additions, Boulebar. Mediterranean plants and “outdoor” seating give the illusion of a town square, the typical setting for the game. If you prefer to play in the real outdoors, visit Levantine Bar Boule Café (levantine.se) in Vasaparken in the Vasatan district.
• £20 Boulebar entry includes a 90-minute game and a buffet brunch, Rosenlundsgatan 8, boulebar.se/rosenlund
Umami’s burger truck
The food-truck
culture is spreading across Gothenburg. Umami’s turquoise burger truck is
tucked away in a courtyard on Magasinsgatan and serves delicious burgers and
sides made from scratch, even down to the pickles, bloody-mary ketchup, soya
mayo and truffle dip. It is hard to miss the long queue forming on a daily
basis.
Tapasbaren
For those familiar with Stockholm, the Majorna area is often described as Gothenburg’s Södermalm – both are working-class neighbourhoods that have become hipster heavens. The pace seems slower here than in the city centre, which also makes it the top choice for young families. Tapasbaren is a local favourite, with the focus on great food and a bohemian atmosphere, rather than a trendy designer interior. It serves crayfish with garlic dressing, gravid herring and baked egg with artichoke crème at reasonable prices.
• Tapas from £3, set menu for two from £23, tapasbaren.se, Mariagatan 17, Majorna
For those familiar with Stockholm, the Majorna area is often described as Gothenburg’s Södermalm – both are working-class neighbourhoods that have become hipster heavens. The pace seems slower here than in the city centre, which also makes it the top choice for young families. Tapasbaren is a local favourite, with the focus on great food and a bohemian atmosphere, rather than a trendy designer interior. It serves crayfish with garlic dressing, gravid herring and baked egg with artichoke crème at reasonable prices.
• Tapas from £3, set menu for two from £23, tapasbaren.se, Mariagatan 17, Majorna
Market
Rosenlund’s revival has seen several bars and restaurants open, making the area a favourite for locals – and following a great food tradition started by the local fish market 150 years ago. One of the most visited is Market, which serves KoMex, a fusion of Mexican and Korean street food that includes coconut fish tacos and steamed buns filled with hoisin pork and seared tuna.
• Meals from £12, Rosenlundsgatan 8,marketrosenlund.se
Rosenlund’s revival has seen several bars and restaurants open, making the area a favourite for locals – and following a great food tradition started by the local fish market 150 years ago. One of the most visited is Market, which serves KoMex, a fusion of Mexican and Korean street food that includes coconut fish tacos and steamed buns filled with hoisin pork and seared tuna.
• Meals from £12, Rosenlundsgatan 8,marketrosenlund.se
Kale’i Kaffebar
No visit to Sweden is complete without a traditional fika (coffee and snack). At Kale’i Kaffebar, there are treats on offer such as homemade sourdough sandwiches and a variety of pastries, including a healthy raw-food fika. Only fairtrade coffee is served and you can take part in coffee tastings and courses in brewing techniques. Sit out on the patio if the weather is fine.
• Kyrkogatan 13, kaleikaffebar.se
No visit to Sweden is complete without a traditional fika (coffee and snack). At Kale’i Kaffebar, there are treats on offer such as homemade sourdough sandwiches and a variety of pastries, including a healthy raw-food fika. Only fairtrade coffee is served and you can take part in coffee tastings and courses in brewing techniques. Sit out on the patio if the weather is fine.
• Kyrkogatan 13, kaleikaffebar.se
Where to drink
Forssén & Öberg
Ina Forssén and Hanna Öberg are the super duo behind this great little champagne bar, hidden just off the city centre’s shopping street. The carefully selected champagnes go perfectly with fresh oysters, a Swedish speciality.
• forssenoberg.com, Kyrogatan 13
Ina Forssén and Hanna Öberg are the super duo behind this great little champagne bar, hidden just off the city centre’s shopping street. The carefully selected champagnes go perfectly with fresh oysters, a Swedish speciality.
• forssenoberg.com, Kyrogatan 13
Brewers Beer Bar
There are few better combinations than cold beer and pizza. Brewers Beer Bar makes pizzas from a six-year-old wheat sourdough, with toppings such as mushroom cream, butternut pumpkin and ibérico ham. The bar advertises its tap selection with a fine slogan: “We change our beers more often than our underwear.” With brushed concrete walls and blue-painted jam jars serving as pendant lights, Brewers reflects the area’s rough-lux design direction.
• Tredje Långgatan 8, brewersbeerbar.se
There are few better combinations than cold beer and pizza. Brewers Beer Bar makes pizzas from a six-year-old wheat sourdough, with toppings such as mushroom cream, butternut pumpkin and ibérico ham. The bar advertises its tap selection with a fine slogan: “We change our beers more often than our underwear.” With brushed concrete walls and blue-painted jam jars serving as pendant lights, Brewers reflects the area’s rough-lux design direction.
• Tredje Långgatan 8, brewersbeerbar.se
Hush-Hush
One of only a few dedicated cocktail bars in Gothenburg, Hush-Hush’s success is down to Julio Gonzalo Chang Romero, a bartender who trained at the Arts Club in London’s Mayfair. He returned to Gothenburg to open this prohibition-style bar with dark furniture, golden wallpaper and great cocktails.
• Cocktails from about £10, Linnégatan 11, visit Hush-Hush on Facebook
One of only a few dedicated cocktail bars in Gothenburg, Hush-Hush’s success is down to Julio Gonzalo Chang Romero, a bartender who trained at the Arts Club in London’s Mayfair. He returned to Gothenburg to open this prohibition-style bar with dark furniture, golden wallpaper and great cocktails.
• Cocktails from about £10, Linnégatan 11, visit Hush-Hush on Facebook
Basque
Magasinsgatan offers an escape from the more touristy areas of Kungsgatan and Avenyn, with its interiors shops, designer and vintage clothing outlets, and great bars and cafes. If you work up a thirst walking its cobbled street, pop into Basque – a popular beer and pintxos hangout, offering a wide selection of local microbrewers’ beers with tapas lined up on the counter. The atmosphere, accentuated by the red ceiling and Marrakech-tiled floor, is loud and cheery – a perfect place to start the evening.
• Magasinsgatan 3, basque.se
Magasinsgatan offers an escape from the more touristy areas of Kungsgatan and Avenyn, with its interiors shops, designer and vintage clothing outlets, and great bars and cafes. If you work up a thirst walking its cobbled street, pop into Basque – a popular beer and pintxos hangout, offering a wide selection of local microbrewers’ beers with tapas lined up on the counter. The atmosphere, accentuated by the red ceiling and Marrakech-tiled floor, is loud and cheery – a perfect place to start the evening.
• Magasinsgatan 3, basque.se
Where to
stay
Pigalle
Bang in the city centre, Pigalle occupies a building that dates from the late 1700s. There have been several budget hotels on this site, but the current trio of owners have added their personal touch to both the interior (which takes its cue from belle époque Paris) and the service. Most tastes are catered for here, starting with the Amuse bar on the ground floor and continuing all the way up to top-floor restaurant, Atelier (serving seasonal French cuisine, with desserts to die for). The rooms and common areas are exquisitely decorated – wherever you look, there is something of note: a hat, a picture frame or a very special pair of Pigalle Louboutin heels. These can be borrowed – in several sizes – from the reception desk.
• Doubles from £138 B&B, Atelier set menu from £37, +46 31 802521,hotelpigalle.se
Bang in the city centre, Pigalle occupies a building that dates from the late 1700s. There have been several budget hotels on this site, but the current trio of owners have added their personal touch to both the interior (which takes its cue from belle époque Paris) and the service. Most tastes are catered for here, starting with the Amuse bar on the ground floor and continuing all the way up to top-floor restaurant, Atelier (serving seasonal French cuisine, with desserts to die for). The rooms and common areas are exquisitely decorated – wherever you look, there is something of note: a hat, a picture frame or a very special pair of Pigalle Louboutin heels. These can be borrowed – in several sizes – from the reception desk.
• Doubles from £138 B&B, Atelier set menu from £37, +46 31 802521,hotelpigalle.se
Hotel Lilton
Gothenburg is called Little London, not just because of its pub culture but for its architecture. And it was an English architect who designed this red-brick building in the Annedal district in the 1880s. Today, it is a family-owned hotel with nine rooms decorated in a classic style: wooden floors, lace curtains and a light colour scheme throughout. Drinks can be enjoyed on the glass veranda or the patio. The hotel is in a peaceful area, within walking distance of the more buzzy Linnéstaden and Vasastan.
• Doubles from £80, +46 31 828808, lilton.se
Gothenburg is called Little London, not just because of its pub culture but for its architecture. And it was an English architect who designed this red-brick building in the Annedal district in the 1880s. Today, it is a family-owned hotel with nine rooms decorated in a classic style: wooden floors, lace curtains and a light colour scheme throughout. Drinks can be enjoyed on the glass veranda or the patio. The hotel is in a peaceful area, within walking distance of the more buzzy Linnéstaden and Vasastan.
• Doubles from £80, +46 31 828808, lilton.se
Änggårdens Bed and Breakfast
Built to accommodate doctors and their families from the nearby Sahlgrenska hospital, this beautiful, yellow 1920s villa is now a family-run B&B, surrounded by a leafy garden. It’s next to Slottsskogen park and the botanical gardens. There are lots of original features, including a fireplace, oak wooden floors and high ceilings. The rooms are pretty basic, but neatly decorated in white with carefully selected pieces such as teak desks and old-fashioned washbasins. It serves a great, typically Swedish breakfast including freshly baked bread, caviar and boiled eggs. The B&B is also a good place to view work by local artists.
Built to accommodate doctors and their families from the nearby Sahlgrenska hospital, this beautiful, yellow 1920s villa is now a family-run B&B, surrounded by a leafy garden. It’s next to Slottsskogen park and the botanical gardens. There are lots of original features, including a fireplace, oak wooden floors and high ceilings. The rooms are pretty basic, but neatly decorated in white with carefully selected pieces such as teak desks and old-fashioned washbasins. It serves a great, typically Swedish breakfast including freshly baked bread, caviar and boiled eggs. The B&B is also a good place to view work by local artists.
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